Presented here is an original, extraordinarily scarce Civil War era or earlier, U.S. Army artillery musician's frock coat in excellent condition that recently surfaced from an estate in Vermont. During the mid-nineteenth century and after, many town bands attached themselves to their local militia groups and performed at military reviews and musters. Bands were so valued by the militia as effective recruiting tools that when the Civil War commenced, musical bands were in high demand. Some unit commanders paid large stipends to the bands in order to secure them in their regiments when those organizations went off to war. The U.S. government at times overlooked regulations and allowed the regimental band uniforms to retain their distinct and colorful trim as long as the government didn't have to pay for those costs. We feel that this coat is a militia or pre-war musician frock coat that could easily date to the time of the Civil War. Maker-marked and government inspected, this type of musician's regimental frock coat is a very rare commodity. 'The Horse Soldier' has handled only two other such musician frock coats in over thirty years of business.

Interestingly, this frock coat features a set of officer's cloth shoulder straps handsewn to each shoulder. Garment is a just-above-the-knee length, close-fitting, triple-breasted frock coat with a vent and two tail pockets. Well-constructed of dark indigo-blue flannel wool, the uniform frock specimen exhibits a six-piece upper body, consisting of two front sections with two side and two back pieces. A wrap around skirt and sleeves of the same material finish the coat. Coat bears a short, two-piece standing collar of smooth red wool facing, chevron-style red-wool cuffs and features a padded or quilted chest. Each shoulder strap exhibits a red wool cloth field with a single, gold-braid rank device of a 1st lieutenant sewn to it. Entire strap is bordered with a ¼" wide gold braid. The coat's back interior section and skirts remain unlined. Front of coat is eye-catching as it features three vertical columns of brass coat-size buttons flanked with nine horizontal rows or bars of ½" wide red wool piping placed on a line with each button. When coat front is buttoned up, the bar at the waist measures 7" across and the upper-most bar at the neck measures 13½" across. Sleeves are two piece construction and measure 7" wide across the elbow, 5" at the cuffs. Cuffs are non-functional and each displays two, small size, Eagle "Shield" brass buttons on the seam. Buttons are in very good condition and are unmarked. The triple-breasted uniform coat features twenty-seven, coat-size, Eagle "Shield" brass buttons arranged in three columns down the front of the coat. Buttons exhibit much of their original gold gilt and bear various backmarks including "EXTRA QUALITY, D. EVANS, WATERBURY BUTTON CO.

The front body panel of the coat interior is lightly padded and lined with dark greenish brown cotton cloth. Both sleeves are lined with a light-colored cotton material. Stamped on the left inner sleeve's armpit is a strong maker's stamp in black ink that reads "A. ROSE / NEW YORK" along with the numeral "2" indicating the size. Alvin Rose was a New York City businessman in 1864 who provided flannel shirts, flannel sack coats and drawers to the government under contract. Left sleeve interior also bears an inspector's mark of "WM. SCOTT JR / U.S. INSP / CIN'TI. O" in black ink. Remainder of the coat body, as well as the skirts, is unlined. Rear of coat is cut with a center split, a.k.a. vent, and has folded tails that have a pocket flap worked into each tail. The coat tails have a total of four, large size, Eagle "Shield" buttons in place as each tail flap has one button at the outside split and a button at each inner pocket flap. One over-size breast pocket bag (6½" wide x 9"high), made of dark-brown polished cotton, has been sewn into the coat left side interior. This addition probably added by the musician-soldier himself to accommodate his sheet music. This seldom seen musician's frock coat, in such outstanding condition, exhibits just a few scattered light moth nips with them most prevalent on the red cotton trim facings.

The musician's kepi is constructed in the French 'chasseur pattern' style that was prevalent prior to and during the American Civil War. This private purchase kepi bears a small paper tag with the name "Chase" handwritten in black ink. Similar to the French uniform caps of that period, the kepi bears a lower profile, exhibits a slight slope at the crown, and displays a straight, flat brim. The cap specimen here measures 4" high from base to top of crown and is approximately a size 7". The exterior body is constructed of high quality, deep blue indigo, wool flannel cloth that is in excellent condition. It shows almost no wear or mothing at all save one tiny moth nip on the left side near the juncture with the flat pasteboard disc. Top of the circular crown features a 5" diameter pasteboard disc covered in a dark blue wool cloth that is free of any nips or blemishes. Crown is void of any piping or rank design. The blue color is rich and vibrant, not faded or worn. In addition, kepi features a single, 1/8" wide horizontal line of red cloth piping or braiding that encircles the entire exterior of the kepi. Another single row of red cloth braid runs along the exterior edge brim from visor tip to visor tip. The original flat leather, tarred visor is in very good condition and is tightly sewn to the brim with no repairs evident. A number of small scuffmarks are exhibited on the bottom of the visor. Two, brass, cuff-size, eagle "Shield" buttons backmarked "WATERBURY BUTTON CO" are tightly sewn to each side of the cap. The reddish brown-colored Moroccan leather sweatband measures 1 5/8" high and rings the entire inner brim area of the cap. The thin, black bridle leather is in excellent condition with tight original stitching to the brim. Some slight edge scuffing visible on the band from age and use. Inside crown is lined with a dark brown, polished twill cloth material that is un-padded. Kepi's inner crown disc is covered with a darker brown leather material. Though the crown surface bears slight rubbing and sweat marks, a small, light-colored paper tag is visible and glued to the front edge. Tag bears the soldier's name "Chase" in handwritten black ink.

With the frock coat & kepi is a snare drum with drumsticks. The drum is 13 ¾ inches high and 16 ¾ inches in diameter and made of maple. The drum has been shortened approximately 2 inches probably around the late 1880's. The heads, leather "ears" and the ropes have also been replaced. Inside is a label but the printing is faded and not legible. The top head is marked in faded ink July 4th / R.W.C./ B.P./"05". The bottom has the initials LW. The drumsticks are made of a light colored unstained wood and are tapered to a ball end. One is 17 ¼ inches long and the other is 17 inches in length. One ball is slightly larger than the other one. Also, one has a series of three lines near the bottom and two in the middle carved around the stick.

This fantastic looking, pre-Civil War militia musician's kepi in great original condition is a uniform specimen worthy of any military display or Civil War era headgear collection.

(14-1212) ORIGINALLY $25,000.00
REDUCED TO $22,500.00

This colorful regulation uniform coat has collar and cuffs piped in red and hand sewn directly to each sleeve are the three worsted red stripes and lozenge of a first sergeant of artillery. All buttons are intact. The white muslin sleeve lining is clearly marked with the "SA" stamping for Philadelphia's famed Schuylkill Arsenal and the "2" size designation stamp. Overall condition is fine and sound with a minor scattering of moth holes which do not detract from the appeal of this desirable coat. Ex-John Henry Kurtz collection.

(548-139) $12,500.00

Take this opportunity to acquire an extraordinary, Civil War Union artilleryman's large-size shell jacket that is in excellent-plus condition. This military garment, which appears only very slightly used, is constructed of six panels of heavy wool material dyed a deep indigo blue color and presents a shell jacket that is vivid and bright. The four-panel jacket body exhibits a twelve-button front closure with ten original brass eagle 'shield' buttons securely sewn to the flap edge with original stitching intact. Two buttons are missing, easily replaced. All button backmarks are plain. Shell retains its black-japanned, single-hook at the standup collar but it shows no clasp; appears never to have had one sewn on. Collar measures approximately 2¾" tall and displays four minty rows of 3/8" wide, artillery-red, worsted wool herringbone piping or tape on the collar exterior. Two, small, cuff size eagle 'shield' brass buttons adorn each side of the collar and punctuate the rows of red braid. The standard red herringbone piping runs the length of the buttonhole-side front flap and decorates the entire bottom edge of the jacket. On the shell's backside, piping rises from the two belt-rest pads, a.k.a. 'pillows' sewn to the waist area and highlights the standard "V" cut from pillow to shoulder. Sleeve cuffs are non-functional and both feature a stripe chevron of red braid on the outside cuff.

Original, coarse gray/ brown wool material lines the jacket's interior and is in excellent condition with no tears, thinning or fraying visible. Jacket lining has a very minor, two-inch long seam separation under the right armpit area. A side slash pocket on the inner left-side jacket front is lined with dark brown cotton cloth that shows light seam separation at both upper and lower corners where attached to the shell body. Remaining stitching in the lining is strong and tight. Each of the jacket's two-panel sleeves are lined with white cotton / muslin material in bright, excellent condition with very minor sweat staining marks at the armpits. All sleeve stitching is tight and no tears or perforations are visible on the cotton cloth. On the upper right sleeve next to the shoulder's inner stitching is the government inspector's oval stamping along with the jacket sizing numeral "4", and four 3/8" diameter dots, all stamped in black ink. The clear oval stamping reads "E. H. SHAFER. / U. S. / INSP. CIN." Directly to the right of the oval stamping is the jacket sizing mark, a ¾" high, stenciled numeral "4" while below the stamp are the four black dots that again, signify the size. Jacket's exterior wool body is in truly remarkable condition with no moth nips, perforations, or holes visible. Body does show two, slight seam separations; 1" at the upper right shoulder / sleeve seam, and 1" at the panel seam behind the right shoulder. No tears, no fraying. All the red worsted wool braiding on the jacket is minty, bright, clean and tight with no fraying, ripping or wear through.

Less expensive to produce than the army frock coats, these artillery shell jackets were a comfortable and durable uniform garment worn by Union mounted soldiers during the war. This superb, Civil War artillery shell jacket is a super-fine, Cincinnati Depot government-issue specimen. If the collector is seeking a very fine, rare original Civil War shell jacket, you've found it.

(569-01) $3,250.00

Here is an excellent opportunity to acquire an original, Civil War Union artilleryman's shell jacket in extraordinary condition. Complete in all respects, this specimen is in truly wonderful condition. Constructed of heavy wool material dyed a deep indigo blue, the color of this Civil War shell jacket is simply brilliant. Jacket front exhibits a 12-button closure and all the eagle 'shield' buttons are securely sewn to the flap edge with original stitching. All but two buttons are unmarked. Shell bears no black-japanned hook and clasp on the jacket's standup cloth collar. Collar is strong and unblemished and measures approximately 2" high with display four rows of 3/8" wide, artillery-red worsted wool herringbone piping or tape sewn to the exterior. The standard piping exhibits areas of re-sewing on the collar. Two, small, cuff size eagle 'shield' brass buttons adorn each side of the collar and punctuate the rows of red braid. The red piping runs the length of the buttonhole-side front jacket and decorates all jacket edging including the collar as well.

On the shell's backside, piping rises from two small belt-rest pads, a.k.a. 'pillows' sewn to the waist area and highlights the standard "V" design from pillow to shoulder. Each of the sleeve cuffs is functional and each display two, small, cuff-size eagle 'shield' closure buttons. Sleeves feature a red braid chevron stripe at the outside of each cuff. Jacket's original coarse wool interior lining is dark gray-brown color and in outstanding condition with no visible fraying notable. Lining, which does show light surface soiling and sweat staining, is re-stitched for 5" along the inner collar seam. Jacket sleeves are lined with white cotton / muslin material in excellent condition. No holes or blemishes on the cotton cloth. On the upper right inner sleeve next to the shoulder's inner stitching is the blurred, U.S. Ordnance marking stenciled in black ink. Inspector's name has blotted and blurred and is difficult to make out. Jacket sizing is also on the inner sleeve area and is denoted by three individual, ¼" to ½" size diameter dots in black ink.

Exterior of this jacket body is in remarkably fine original condition with no nips, holes or perforations but it does have a single, ¾" long partial seam separation visible at the right arm pit area. Jacket's red worsted wool braiding is bright and clean and shows a few spots of slight fraying and wear through. Less expensive to produce than the army frock coats, these artillery shell jackets were a comfortable and durable uniform garment worn by Union artillerymen during the war. This good-looking, Civil War artillery shell jacket is a fine original government-issue specimen. The collector who seeks a fine, original artillery shell jacket should look no further.

(558-197) $2,950.00

Here is a great condition, post-Civil War Vermont Colonel Staff Officer's uniform from around 1895. Produced by The M.C. Lilley & Co, best known for its' swords, this uniform contains its identifying tag inside the collar which reads "The M.C. Lilley & Co. Columbus, O. Military & Society Goods." The coat is lined inside with clean polished cotton with a striped pattern in the sleeves. There are two sets of black japanned hook and clasps, at the collar and at the bottom of the coat. The left breast interior contains a slash pocket with a hole in the bottom while the right breast interior contains a regular pocket that remains intact.

The exterior of the uniform is made of a high grade, black wool satinet material. The uniform is detailed with two wide, thick epaulettes with a black wool center, a gold bullion eagle design, and gold bullion borders. The 1.5" high collar has two "VT." initials in gold bullion embroidered on a tight weaved green facing that extends down the opening of the coat and around the bottom of the coat. There is a small tear on the facing on the left chest. The coat has eight 4-hole plastic buttons. Coat exhibits prominent design features such as 25" length sleeves with a wide design (7" at elbow) and with tight seams at the sleeves and the cuffs. This original uniform is constructed using a six-piece design.

(200-283) ORIGINALLY $695.00
REDUCED TO $550.00

In remarkably fine condition, this original Civil War cloth uniform item is a highly desirable, yet seldom seen Federal enlistedman's regulation infantry overcoat, a.k.a. a 'greatcoat'. This greatcoat was likely issued very late in the war and is totally complete, clean and shows little or no wear. Maker-marked and partially inspector-stamped, the greatcoat also bears the markings of the George A. Cowles Company textile treatment. The greatcoat is constructed of sky-blue wool kersey cloth, as is the original over-the-shoulders sky-blue wool kersey cape that is attached. Well-preserved, this wool overcoat retains its original brown-colored burlap interior lining in almost minty condition. Lining is machined stitched to the body and runs from the shoulder area down to the waist. Remainder of the overcoat is unlined. Bottom edge of the coat skirts is void of any hemming or stitching. Coat interior sleeves are lined with a coarse, light brown linen material handsewn to the body. The lining runs from the armpit down to the inner cuffs. Both cuffs on the sleeves are each 5¾" deep and are functional so as to turn down and protect the hands.

Garment bears no soldier identification but does exhibit stampings in black ink on each of the upper interior sleeve linings. The upper right sleeve armpit area reveals a partial circular stamping outline of a US government inspector's mark. Directly below is a very strong maker's stamping that reads "R. B. ESLER" over four circular black dots (. . . .) which indicate coat size #4. A large, 2" high number "21½" is handwritten in pencil below the dots and appears to indicate the coat's sleeve length. Robert B. Esler was a Philadelphia garment maker during the Civil War who contracted with the US government for 6,500 greatcoats in November 1863. He also produced sack coats, infantry trousers, saddle trousers and shelter tents during the war. In the upper left sleeve armpit is found a very lightly stamped patent mark in black ink that reads "COWLES & CO / PAT. SEP. 20 64 / JANUARY ____". The US Army used the Cowles patent 'moth, water and mildewproofing treatment' process from 1869 to 1876 to protect hundreds of thousands of yards of fabric, over 150,000 wool uniforms and over 20,000 tents while in government storage.

The coat has a high-standing collar made of burlap sandwiched between two layers of kersey cloth with four rows of light colored thread. Collar retains all original stitching and closes at the neck with two, small, black japanned iron hooks and eyes. Collar shows one small pencil eraser-size moth nip / hole on the interior. Greatcoat interior has a course brown wool lining at the torso and waist area but is unlined for the remaining body of the coat. Overcoat is single-breasted and comes complete with an attached single-breasted cape. Greatcoat retains all five original large, coat-size, brass eagle-shield buttons still strongly sewn to the front of the coat with two coat buttons attached to the cloth adjusters sewn on the coat's backside. All the brass, coat buttons bear no backmark. Greatcoat is virtually free of any rips or tears over the coat body moth but does show some scattered tiny moth nips on the upper back and front that have been repaired.

The attached, original over-the-shoulders style cape is of sky-blue kersey and when worn, it reaches down to the elbows of the wearer. The two-panel kersey cape retains six, cuff-size, brass eagle-shield buttons tightly sewn to the center opening. Cape body exhibits a few very small moth nips that show repair. Exterior shoulder area of the cape exhibits slight fading and some light surface grime. All the cape buttons are unmarked. Right exterior coat sleeve shows four small moth nips and left sleeve has one tiny nip unrepaired. Original Civil War greatcoats, such as this very fine specimen, are fast becoming one of the most difficult type of military garment to find in the collecting community.

(490-33) $6,950.00

This rare and unusual woolen uniform item is an original pair of Federal Army Civil War 'mounted' uniform pants or trousers, sometimes referred to as 'saddled' trousers. Worn by enlisted Union cavalrymen or light artillerymen, these trouser specimens are seldom seen today in the collecting fraternity. Made of sky-blue wool kersey, these trousers are in good strong condition overall with no visible stampings or markings. They feature a 33" waist with an inseam of 28" and measure 9" wide across the widest portion of the trouser leg. Pants are cut full and are not lined but feature a second layer of the heavy wool cloth sewn to the outside of the seat / thigh area of the trousers. This 'saddled' layer was used to help extend the life of the cloth due to the hard use the trousers received from being worn against the saddle leather. The unlined trousers exhibit a 2" wide, white linen inner waistband (now turned a beige-color) that is in remarkably good condition. Waistband supports a slit pocket on each side of trousers. Other features are a button-down fly that retains its four original, 15mm, tin, 4-hole garment buttons tightly sewn to the opening and a pocket watch slit in the right front of the waistband. No provision for a wool belt adjuster band. All trouser seam stitching appears to be original and is in strong tight condition save for a 3" long portion of the "V" re-enforcing band on the inner rear waistband that has separated. Trouser waist and upper leg areas, in front and in back, exhibit numerous scattered tiny / small moth nips and holes from insect damage overall. The largest hole measures 1½" long x ½" wide on the backside with five additional holes approximately ½" in diameter scattered about. Trousers still retain all seven tin waist buttons as well as the eight 12mm tin buttons sewn to each of the inner trouser cuffs, four buttons per cuff. No cloth cuff straps included. This Civil War cavalry / light artillery pair of rare mounted trousers a wonderful woolen artifact of the Union army and would make a superlative addition to any collection of period military cloth.

(M18574) $20,000.00

This original, Civil War regulation, vest specimen is a Federal officer's dark indigo blue, wool satinet uniform garment in wonderfully outstanding condition. A most handsome uniform piece, the vest is a finely tailored military accoutrement produced by a Baltimore, Maryland firm identified as Thomas McCormick & Brother. The maker's mark, a fine cloth lapel exhibited on the interior upper lining, reads "MADE BY / Thom. McCormick & Bro. / MERCHANT TAILORS, / 149 W. Baltimore Street, / Corner of Calvert Street, / First Class Clothing at Prices to Suit the Times." The Baltimore Business Directory in 1863 lists McCormick under 'tailors' and 'military goods' at 149 West Baltimore Street where he continued his business until 1868. Vest is in very fine condition and is manufactured with dark indigo blue, satinet-wool material. Vest interior boasts a very fine, beige-colored linen inner lining with no tears or rips. Some underarm sweat stains are visible. Backing on the vest is finished in classic, dark-brown polished cotton in wonderful condition and is complete with the waist adjustment strap that still retains its black-japanned tie clasp. Lining and backing material both in very excellent condition. Vest front features eight, tinback brass buttons, all cuff-size Eagle-shield "I" types in beautiful condition with no blemishes, dents or depressed faces. Buttons are secured to the material without stitching. Small, 1/8" diameter hand-whipped holes provide a pass-through for the button shanks that are then secured via small brass cotter pin like devices. All nine buttonholes on the vest are tight with hand-whipped stitching and no fraying. Vest is missing one button at the very bottom of the run and displays three slash pockets on the front; two at the waist and one at the upper left side. Scattered about the front facing are six to ten, tiny spots of light insect damage, all on the left side. This Federal officer's uniform vest is a superb representative example of Civil War uniform cloth that would enhance any personal display or military cloth collection.

(344-17) $3,950.00

This superb original artifact of imported military headgear is a Model 1860 French-pattern infantry leather shako. Used by some Pennsylvania and New England militia troops early in the Civil War, this type shako was part of 10,000 sets of uniforms purchased from the Godillot firm in Paris and imported for the US market.

They were issued to the troops with full dress dark green-black feathers, now missing. Shako does retain its original blue / white sphere or 'pompom' at the top center. This shako specimen is constructed of heavy black leather and was intended mainly for dress occasions and other ceremonies. The cap measures 5¾" high with a straight vertical crown that features a brass-stamped, gilt, hat plate pinned to the front. Plate has acquired a mellow patina and features a spread-winged eagle with a chest shield device atop a laurel wreath. Wreath surrounds 1 3/8" diameter disc and exhibits the infantry symbol of a hunting horn embossed upon it. Attached to the top of the crown is a 2" diameter metal cockade painted with three concentric rings of red, white and blue paint. Most soldiers did not care for the cover as the headpiece proved to be heavy and hot, even with the two side vent holes located on the cap.

Some of the Federal units known to have worn these shakos were the 62nd and 83rd Pennsylvania Volunteers, the 18th Massachusetts and regiments in New York's Excelsior Brigade. All exterior leather exhibits a very strong and smooth surface that is free of cracking. Two diagonal leather bands are stitched to each side of the shako body for stability. Stitching is still tight and strong. Cap interior features a thin, 2¾" wide, black leather liner in good condition with edge scuffing along the brim and scattered flaking to the sides. Center back seam has separated but can be easily re-stitched. Inside the shako is the thin leather suspension straps or clasp straps attached to the interior reinforcing ring at the crown top. Also retained is the original leather chinstrap. The thick leather visor is in very excellent condition with very minor surface crazing. Visor is tightly sewn to the base of shako and exhibits an upward turned brim. Leather bottom of the visor brim is painted a light pea green color and has the letter "C" embossed on the surface. No maker's markings are visible on the cap but it does exhibit a stenciled, 1" high, numeral "4½ " in black ink which indicates the size of the shako.

This militia and Civil War shako is a fine example of an early war cover and would certainly make an ideal focus to any military headgear collection or cap display.

(346-40) $1,150.00

Here, in fantastic original condition, is a handsome, unidentified militia officer's kepi manufactured by a Union County, Pennsylvania merchant named John M. Taylor of Lewisburg. A clear and strong maker's mark printed in gold gilt reads "J. M. TAYLOR / LEWISBURG / PA." and is found on the inside cloth of the kepi's crown. Records are scarce on John M. Taylor and he is not listed in B. Bazelon's and McGuinn's "Directory of American Military Goods Dealers and Makers 1785-1915." Taylor is listed as a merchant on the Lewisburg Borough property lists for Union County, PA in October 1864 according to the Mifflinburg tax assessor. John M. Taylor was a businessman of some means as he was taxed on a number of Union County holdings that included acreage, town lots, buildings, cattle, horses, and carriages. One entry in the Mifflinburg Telegraph Weekly Newspaper in late 1852 reported that the old County jail was sold to John M. Taylor who 'converted it into a dwelling'. In 1864, Taylor was taxed on personal property valued at $2,400.00, a hefty sum of money for the time. Taylor was instrumental in the manufacturing of military uniform-style kepis in Lewisburg, PA as attested to by this fine kepi specimen that bears his name but no records of his manufacturing facility have been found as yet.

Constructed in the French 'chasseur pattern' style that was prevalent prior to and during the American Civil War, this private purchase kepi was manufactured by Taylor's clothing firm in Lewisburg to serve the many and varied pre-Civil War militia companies that were common in both the North and the South. Similar to the French uniform caps of that period, the kepi had a lower profile, exhibited a less pronounced slope at the crown, and displayed a straight, flat visor or brim. This type of kepi was worn usually by officers who had some freedom of dress in their uniform choice.

The officer cap specimen here measures 4" high from base to top of crown and is approximately a size 7". The exterior body is constructed of high quality, deep blue indigo, wool satinet cloth that is absolutely in choice condition. It shows almost no wear or mothing at all save one tiny moth nip on the right side near the juncture with the visor. Top of the circular crown features a 5" diameter pasteboard disc covered in a red wool cloth that is free of any nips or blemishes. Crown is void of any piping or rank design. The colors of both the blue and the red wool cloth are rich and vibrant, not faded or worn. In addition, kepi features single, 1/8" wide vertical lines of gold piping or braiding that emanate from the crown's 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions and traverse downward at an angle on the cloth sides. Piping terminates at a single horizontal band of gold piping that encircles the entire exterior of the kepi. Another single row of gold braid runs along the exterior edge brim from visor tip to visor tip.

The original flat, thick leather, tarred visor is in excellent, strong condition and tightly sewn to the brim with no repairs evident. The reddish brown-colored Moroccan leather sweatband measures 1 3/8" high and rings the entire inner brim area of the cap. The thin leather is in excellent condition with tight original stitching to the brim. One small area of sweatband brim stitching has separated from the body at the right visor tip. Some slight edge scuffing visible on the band from age and use. Inside crown is lined with a dark brown, unpolished, twill cloth material that is lightly padded, while the kepi's inner crown disc is covered with a slightly darker brown, quilted cotton cloth. Though its surface bears slight rubbing and sweat marks, the maker's name "J. M. TAYLOR / LEWISBURG / PA." is strongly stamped in faded gold gilt on the disc's center with ¼" high block letters. Kepi is complete with its thick, unbroken, tarred leather visor or brim tightly stitched to the body. Also the kepi appears never to have had a chinstrap, cloth brim band, or any brass, cuff-size buttons on either side of the cap.

This fantastic looking, pre-Civil War militia officer's kepi in such great original condition is a uniform specimen worthy of any Pennsylvania military display or of any Civil War era headgear collection.

(72-16) ORIGINALLY $5,500.00
REDUCED TO $3,950.00

This is the tall kepi headgear adopted by the Swiss army in 1886. It is made of blue wool and trimmed in yellow, the national colors of Sweden. Liner is intact with signs of wear in a small area. Brim is made from tarred cardboard. Cloth has some very minor moth damage.

(558-509) $95.00

Ca. 1898-1900 Regulation "Snowflake" side vents, w/standard three rows of stitching around outer brim. Also has the standard one inch brown ribbon w/left side bow, w/non-regulation stamp "Columbia" in half inch lettering [much faded] to the front. Interior sweat band marking: "Regulation/ U.S./ Army Hat", w/ padded lining. Sweat band ink inscription [just ahead of regulation marking] "F. Johnson". Small size: 6 ½ to 6 5/8. Non-regulation "1902" shoestring neck strap [easily removable]. Interior sweatband somewhat worn. Exterior exhibits a pair of light spots on brim, else vg w/regulation drab patina. A solid Span-Am campaign display hat.

(169-110) ORIGINALLY $3,250.00
REDUCED TO $2,950.00

This article of United States Army headgear is an early period, black felt hat that was referred to as a 'bicorn' or 'chapeau de bras'. Like most American uniforms of that period, this hat followed the French / Napoleonic influence in design. Worn by all line and staff officers of the army, this type chapeau was worn at a slight angle or 'sideways' atop the head. Produced in the early 1820's, the officer's chapeau is constructed of stiff black beaver felt and has a 7½" high, steeply curved, 18" long upright front brim. The rounded crown, hidden by the front facing, is backed by an 8½" high, crescent shaped, 18" long back brim. Front upright brim is decorated with a circular cockade disc of fine, black, silk, 6½" in diameter that is secured to the felt. A double-row of ¾" wide, black-lace braiding is centered on the cockade and features a thin, spread-winged brass eagle insignia facing to his right, with a set of five arrows in his left talon and an olive branch in his right talon. Inside edge of the hat crown exhibits the original 2½" wide black leather sweatband that is in very good condition with just few tears. Tattered remains of beige-colored silk used as a liner inside the crown. No maker's stamp or mark visible. Black felt surface of the hat is stiff but faded with areas of moderate soiling and grime. Bottom right corner of the front brim has a 1½" x 1" section missing. Front brim top edge has a 4" long felt section crudely repaired with tape and hand-stitching. A 1½" long section of felt is missing at the brim behind the cockade. Also visible is a period stitching repair at the lower right corner. This surviving article of U.S. military headdress worn by American officers in the early part of the 1800's is an original uniform specimen that would make a fitting addition to any collection of U.S. Army headgear.

(M20600) $1,100.00

This remarkable article of United States Army headgear is an early period, black felt hat that was referred to as a 'bicorn' or 'chapeau de bras'. Like most American uniforms of that period, this hat followed the French / Napoleonic influence in design. Worn by all line and staff officers of the army, this type chapeau was worn at a slight angle or 'sideways' atop the head.

The chapeau was produced in the early 1820's to the late 1830's by the firm of Charles St. John, hatter in New York City. Constructed of stiff black felt, the officer's chapeau has a 5½" high, 8½" wide, rounded crown that is hidden by a front facing, 8¼" high, steeply curved upright brim. Brim is 15" wide at the base and tapers up to a 6" wide, top edge. Likewise, the back of crown has a higher 9½" steeply curved, upright brim that has the same dimensions as the front. Hat has no visor. Front upright brim is decorated with a circular patch of fine, black, silk material approximately 7" wide diameter sewn to the felt. Attached to the black silk at the top edge of the hat is a thin, brass, spread-winged eagle insignia facing to his right, with a set of five arrows in his right talon and an olive branch in his left talon. Directly below the eagle is a hand-sewn decoration of black shiny beads that form an intricate, unknown design. Bottom portion of the design stitching has frayed and appears to be missing a number of the black beads. A 2½" wide band of high quality, black ribbon is glued to the front center of the brim and forms a large 'V' pattern. Inside edge of the hat crown has the original 2¼" wide buff colored leather sweatband that exhibits a few rips and tears. A beige-colored cloth of silk or polished cotton material is used as a liner inside the crown. Clearly visible on the original liner is the maker's stamp in black ink that reads, "C. St. JOHN, / 118 / BROADWAY, / New York". Liner is torn and exhibits rips and large areas of fraying.

Black felt surface of the hat is stiff but faded with areas of moderate soiling and grime. Top right side of the back brim has two, 1½" long tears along the edge. To set this chapeau off as an artillery or rifle officer's hat is a 4" long tassel made of spun gold and dead bullion that is attached via a small brass button pinned to the body.

This surviving article of U.S. military headdress worn by American officers in the early part of the 1800's is a fine original specimen that would make a fitting addition to any collection of U.S. Army headgear.

(413-01) $3,950.00

Here, in excellent original condition, is a mid to late 19th century Rhode Island militia officers' black felt hat often referred to as a "bicorn' or 'chapeau de bras'. This hat specimen was manufactured by the well-known clothing firm of Bent and Bush of Boston and is so prominently labeled on the inside crown. Officer' chapeaus, after being dropped as a regulation item in 1851, was re- introduced in 1858 for the dress regulations pertaining to all General and Field Officers, at their option. Rules were modified again in 1859 to include a down-sized version of a 'light French chapeau' with a more rounded profile overall as presented here.

Constructed with black felt fur, the crescent-shaped uniform accoutrement measures 17½" long x 6" high. Hat folds flat but opens to a width of 6" at the center. An ornate set of bright gold bullion tassels adorn each end of the chapeau. One set of tassels is loosely attached due to its partial loss of black stitching. Featured on one side of the cap is a rectangular 5" x 2" silk and gold bullion cockade or strap with rounded edges. The cockade itself is adorned with an 1832 pattern, spreadwinged brass eagle with a scroll in its peak. A very fine,Rhode Island officer's 3-piece, coat size brass button is affixed to the bottom of the gold strap and exhibits the State's seal of the intertwined anchor with a scroll marked "HOPE". Diagonally placed and attached to each end of the hat is a length of fine, black silk ribbon approximately 1" in width. Attached overhead on the chapeau's crown is a wonderfully majestic plume of vibrant, black ostrich feathers that hugs the entire exterior of the crown. Cap interior features its original bright blue silk lining rimmed with a 1¼" high, brown leather sweatband. Band has lost some areas of stitching on each side of hat but does not detract from the piece. A very fine maker's mark in gold gilt is stamped on the interior crown. This excellent, original condition Rhode Island officer's chapeau is a very fine example of a head cover worn by a number of military and militia officers during the 19th century.

(200-286) ORIGINALLY $750.00
REDUCED TO $600.00

Here, in fine original condition, is an identified, late 19th century, black felt hat often referred to as a "bicorn' or 'chapeau de bras'. The owner, George M. Maxim, has his name typed upon a small slip of paper that is enclosed in a thin, metal, pinback frame device. No research has been performed on Maxim at this point.

This hat specimen was manufactured by the Ames Sword Company of Chicopee, Massachusetts, and is so prominently labeled on the inside crown. Evolved from the famous edged weapons facility at Ames Manufacturing Company, Chicopee, Mass., the Ames Sword Company was formed at Chicopee in May 1881 and had a branch facility in Chicago, IL. The Ames Sword Company firm made military uniforms as well as other equipment and lasted until the 1920's when it was taken over by the M.C. Lilley Co. of Columbus, Ohio.

The head cover appears to be a component of a fraternal or late militia uniform ensemble and exhibits no military hardware, i.e. buttons, badges, or cockades etc. Obviously an officer's piece, this finely crafted head cover is designed with a 'front to back' arrangement, sometimes called "fore and aft" in the trade. This profile was adopted after the Civil War and is constructed of stiff black felt, the chapeau has a 5" high, 6½" high, rounded crown. The long brim is approximately 17" long and both fore and aft portions are folded over and rest on the top surface of the brim. The fore (front) brim measures 2¼" wide at the tip and tapers back to 5½" at the base of the rounded crown. Right side of the crown exhibits a thin, decorative black cording that measures 2" high x 8½" long and is sewn and bound to the chapeau. The center of the crown base bears a fine, silk ribbon approximately 2½" in length and secures one end of a wonderfully majestic plume of vibrant, black ostrich feathers that hugs the entire exterior of the crown.

Interior of the crown exhibits a folded and tucked black, polished cloth as a liner and displays the Ames maker's stamping in clear, large, silver script. Hat features a 1¾" high, brown leather sweatband strongly stitched to the brim and is in very fine original condition with no rips or tears. A small, ½" square label denoting size 7½ appears glued to the sweatband. In addition, two sheets of period writing paper have been folded over and placed behind the band to help adjust the hat size to the owner's head. The chapeau is a very fine example of a popular head cover worn by many fraternal organizations near the turn of the century.

(441-01) $250.00

John P. Langellier. Hardback w/dustjacket from Schiffer Publishing. 184 pp. Measures 9 1/2" x 12 1/4".

Hats Off offers a concise history of U.S. Army headgear from the immediate post Civil War era to the eve of World War I. In this study historial John P. Langellier shares more than a quarter of a century of research in archives, museums, and private collections throughout the nation. An informative text is supported by nearly 400 illustrations of rare and important military headdress. The volume is destined to become a standard reference for collectors, curators, and those interested in American military uniforms from the Indian Wars through the early 20th century.

(111) $69.95

Gordon Chappell. Hardcover, 128 pp. Thomas Publications.

Heavily illustrated volume identifying an array of helmets. Gordon Chappell, after more than thirty years of extensive research, identifies an array of helmets, answering questions about when, where, and how such helmets were manufactured and worn. Using specimens from museums, private collections, & historic photographs, Chappell has completed the definitve work on American military helmets from 1872-1904. Detailed and extensively illustrated with over 160 photographs.

(500868) $29.95