Presented here is an original, extraordinarily scarce Civil War era or earlier, U.S. Army artillery musician's frock coat in excellent condition that recently surfaced from an estate in Vermont. During the mid-nineteenth century and after, many town bands attached themselves to their local militia groups and performed at military reviews and musters. Bands were so valued by the militia as effective recruiting tools that when the Civil War commenced, musical bands were in high demand. Some unit commanders paid large stipends to the bands in order to secure them in their regiments when those organizations went off to war. The U.S. government at times overlooked regulations and allowed the regimental band uniforms to retain their distinct and colorful trim as long as the government didn't have to pay for those costs. We feel that this coat is a militia or pre-war musician frock coat that could easily date to the time of the Civil War. Maker-marked and government inspected, this type of musician's regimental frock coat is a very rare commodity. 'The Horse Soldier' has handled only two other such musician frock coats in over thirty years of business.

Interestingly, this frock coat features a set of officer's cloth shoulder straps handsewn to each shoulder. Garment is a just-above-the-knee length, close-fitting, triple-breasted frock coat with a vent and two tail pockets. Well-constructed of dark indigo-blue flannel wool, the uniform frock specimen exhibits a six-piece upper body, consisting of two front sections with two side and two back pieces. A wrap around skirt and sleeves of the same material finish the coat. Coat bears a short, two-piece standing collar of smooth red wool facing, chevron-style red-wool cuffs and features a padded or quilted chest. Each shoulder strap exhibits a red wool cloth field with a single, gold-braid rank device of a 1st lieutenant sewn to it. Entire strap is bordered with a ¼" wide gold braid. The coat's back interior section and skirts remain unlined. Front of coat is eye-catching as it features three vertical columns of brass coat-size buttons flanked with nine horizontal rows or bars of ½" wide red wool piping placed on a line with each button. When coat front is buttoned up, the bar at the waist measures 7" across and the upper-most bar at the neck measures 13½" across. Sleeves are two piece construction and measure 7" wide across the elbow, 5" at the cuffs. Cuffs are non-functional and each displays two, small size, Eagle "Shield" brass buttons on the seam. Buttons are in very good condition and are unmarked. The triple-breasted uniform coat features twenty-seven, coat-size, Eagle "Shield" brass buttons arranged in three columns down the front of the coat. Buttons exhibit much of their original gold gilt and bear various backmarks including "EXTRA QUALITY, D. EVANS, WATERBURY BUTTON CO.

The front body panel of the coat interior is lightly padded and lined with dark greenish brown cotton cloth. Both sleeves are lined with a light-colored cotton material. Stamped on the left inner sleeve's armpit is a strong maker's stamp in black ink that reads "A. ROSE / NEW YORK" along with the numeral "2" indicating the size. Alvin Rose was a New York City businessman in 1864 who provided flannel shirts, flannel sack coats and drawers to the government under contract. Left sleeve interior also bears an inspector's mark of "WM. SCOTT JR / U.S. INSP / CIN'TI. O" in black ink. Remainder of the coat body, as well as the skirts, is unlined. Rear of coat is cut with a center split, a.k.a. vent, and has folded tails that have a pocket flap worked into each tail. The coat tails have a total of four, large size, Eagle "Shield" buttons in place as each tail flap has one button at the outside split and a button at each inner pocket flap. One over-size breast pocket bag (6½" wide x 9"high), made of dark-brown polished cotton, has been sewn into the coat left side interior. This addition probably added by the musician-soldier himself to accommodate his sheet music. This seldom seen musician's frock coat, in such outstanding condition, exhibits just a few scattered light moth nips with them most prevalent on the red cotton trim facings.

The musician's kepi is constructed in the French 'chasseur pattern' style that was prevalent prior to and during the American Civil War. This private purchase kepi bears a small paper tag with the name "Chase" handwritten in black ink. Similar to the French uniform caps of that period, the kepi bears a lower profile, exhibits a slight slope at the crown, and displays a straight, flat brim. The cap specimen here measures 4" high from base to top of crown and is approximately a size 7". The exterior body is constructed of high quality, deep blue indigo, wool flannel cloth that is in excellent condition. It shows almost no wear or mothing at all save one tiny moth nip on the left side near the juncture with the flat pasteboard disc. Top of the circular crown features a 5" diameter pasteboard disc covered in a dark blue wool cloth that is free of any nips or blemishes. Crown is void of any piping or rank design. The blue color is rich and vibrant, not faded or worn. In addition, kepi features a single, 1/8" wide horizontal line of red cloth piping or braiding that encircles the entire exterior of the kepi. Another single row of red cloth braid runs along the exterior edge brim from visor tip to visor tip. The original flat leather, tarred visor is in very good condition and is tightly sewn to the brim with no repairs evident. A number of small scuffmarks are exhibited on the bottom of the visor. Two, brass, cuff-size, eagle "Shield" buttons backmarked "WATERBURY BUTTON CO" are tightly sewn to each side of the cap. The reddish brown-colored Moroccan leather sweatband measures 1 5/8" high and rings the entire inner brim area of the cap. The thin, black bridle leather is in excellent condition with tight original stitching to the brim. Some slight edge scuffing visible on the band from age and use. Inside crown is lined with a dark brown, polished twill cloth material that is un-padded. Kepi's inner crown disc is covered with a darker brown leather material. Though the crown surface bears slight rubbing and sweat marks, a small, light-colored paper tag is visible and glued to the front edge. Tag bears the soldier's name "Chase" in handwritten black ink.

With the frock coat & kepi is a snare drum with drumsticks. The drum is 13 ¾ inches high and 16 ¾ inches in diameter and made of maple. The drum has been shortened approximately 2 inches probably around the late 1880's. The heads, leather "ears" and the ropes have also been replaced. Inside is a label but the printing is faded and not legible. The top head is marked in faded ink July 4th / R.W.C./ B.P./"05". The bottom has the initials LW. The drumsticks are made of a light colored unstained wood and are tapered to a ball end. One is 17 ¼ inches long and the other is 17 inches in length. One ball is slightly larger than the other one. Also, one has a series of three lines near the bottom and two in the middle carved around the stick.

This fantastic looking, pre-Civil War militia musician's kepi in great original condition is a uniform specimen worthy of any military display or Civil War era headgear collection.

(14-1212) $25,000.00

This remarkable article of clothing from the mid 19th century is a set of India-rubber 'leggins or leggings". Each of the two, individual waterproof 'leggings' is constructed with medium-gauge drill fabric coated, via the 'vulcanization process', with an India-rubber compound on the exterior. Vulcanization, discovered by inventor and experimenter Charles Goodyear in 1839, involved treating crude rubber with various chemicals and heat to give the rubber multiple features such as stability, elasticity, flexibility and strength. The vulcanization process allowed a number of useful articles of waterproof clothing to be manufactured, such as shoes, coats, hats, blankets, and miscellaneous other items. When worn over the trousers, these large-size 'riding leggings' covered the legs from ankle to thigh and provided protection to the wearer in inclement weather. Each of these step-in leggings is slightly tapered and measures 32" long, 11" wide at the top, 8½" wide at the ankle and has a small bottom flare-out for the boots. Both leggings are fitted with a bottom heel strap and a leather loop strap at the upper end which connects and secures to a narrow leather waist belt that accompanies this artifact.

Both rubber leggings are in good original condition overall but the India-rubber coated exterior surface exhibits areas of flaking and wear-through from normal rubbing at the boot and heel. 95% of the remaining rubber coating is fine and strong on the leggings but it does show scattered scuffing, scratches and thin spots especially at the edges and creases. One legging specimen even retains the ink remnants, now faded, of the Goodyear patent marking and the Union India Rubber Company stamping near the upper area. Stampings there but hard to discern. India-rubber garments, such as these leggings, were a tremendous god-send to travelers at that time. In 1855, Charles Goodyear wrote "leggins are used for walking, or riding on horseback in muddy traveling. A long leggin is designed only to be worn in the cold and snow, for which purpose it cannot be too highly recommended." Even Union General in Chief of the Armies, Ulysses S. Grant, owned such a pair of rubber leggings.

This original and seldom seen pair of India-rubber 'leggings' would constitute a wonderful addition to any Civil War era cloth collection or officer's display. For additional information, please reference India-Rubber and Gutta-Percha In the Civil War by Mike Woshner, O'Donnell Publ, 1999.

(M19511) $2,500.00

A very nice Civil War uniform set, classically period in every detail. Nine button front shell jacket of fine blue wool, retaining eight of the original Superior Quality eagle As, missing only the bottom button. Three buttons on each cuff, one eagle A and two general service eagles, which appear to be period replacements. 1" high stand up collar, original, heavily worn, single border, captain of artillery shoulder straps tacked in place. Quilted black polished cotton body lining, white cotton sleeve lining. There is a single interior pocket, lined with brown polished cotton, on the lower left breast. Very fine condition, just showing some honest wear/use, most notably in the arm pits, also some minor fading on the lower sections of the sleeves. Tacked to the left sleeve is a black crepe mourning band, doubtless from Lincoln's assassination.

The vest is blue wool with brown polished cotton belted back and white polished cotton lining. Interior pocket on the left breast as well as two exterior pockets with brown polished cotton lining. The nine button front utilizes bras split rings to hold the buttons in place which pass through hand whipped holes. There are five Scovill eagle As and four Scovill general service buttons, all period. Excellent condition, just some honest wear on the collar and at the arm pits as well as some scattered tiny spots of mothing.

The trousers are of excellent quality medium blue wool with belted back, front pockets with button closure and heavy burlap reinforcing in the cuffs. The trousers incorporate a narrow red worsted wool seam welt. Polished brown and white cotton lining, waist band with what appears to be a hand applied blue diagonal striping (not ticking), brass sew through suspender and fly buttons. A few scattered moth holes and some surface mothing to the knap but generally excellent. The entire uniform is completely hand stitched. Regulation silk maroon waist sash, 3½" wide with 8" tassels with a wooden core, a few small holes and some minor wear on the tassels but generally excellent.

A very desirable Civil War officer's uniform in superb untouched condition.

(410-07) $9,950.00

Here is a very handsome, Civil War, 1st Lieutenant's uniform frock dress coat in extraordinarily fine condition. This frock coat is tailored in the pre to early war design. This lined and padded, expensively tailor-made military garment is a very high-quality frock coat made of rich, dark indigo-blue wool satinet material.

Coat exhibits prominent design pattern features such as the wider sleeves (9 1/2" at elbow) and the tightly gathered shoulder seams at the sleeves and functional cuffs. This original frock coat is constructed using a multi-piece body consisting of two, one-piece front / side panels, four individual back panels, neck collar and sleeves, along with pleated split skirts. Interior front torso and ribcage, as well as the interior upper back and neck area of the coat have been wonderfully padded in a narrow, tight-ribbed design. Entire padded interior area plus the full-length skirts are covered with a shiny, high-grade dark green polished cloth lining in excellent condition. Both interior sleeve lengths are tightly lined with a light-colored, polished linen material. One inside slash pocket is accommodated for on the left side of this frock coat. Rear skirt of the coat is made with a center split, a.k.a. vent, and has folded tails with a large pocket flap worked into each tail. The uniform features a one-piece, 1 1/8" high standing neck collar of the same fine satinet material which is backed on the inside with smooth black velvet lining that shows signs of wear. This beautiful condition coat has one minor blemish, a small ¼ inch hole or tear in the middle of the back that could be easily repaired.

Sewn to each of the exterior shoulder board areas are the infantry 1st Lieutenant's military shoulder straps. Each strap measures 4¼" long by 1¾" wide. Straps are in very good condition and are constructed with a combination of gold and dead bullion. A thin 'Jaceron wire' border flanks the inner and outer edge of both straps as well as the edges of the four rank bar devices. The field on the straps is a light blue with signs of light fading.

Each cuff displays three, lined, cuff size, Eagle "I" brass buttons sewn at the cuff opening. All cuff buttons are in excellent condition with gilt, and five are backmarked with "SCOVILL MFG CO. / WATERBURY" and one SCOVILL MFG CO. The uniform coat features a single-breasted display of nine, original, coat-size, Infantry "I" buttons in excellent condition, all arranged in single vertical row of nine buttons down the coat front. Each button is backmarked "SCOVILL MFG. CO. / WATERBURY". Each coat tail has two, large coat size, Infantry "I" buttons with one button sewn at the outside split and a button sewn at each inner pocket flap. These buttons are also backmarked "SCOVILL MFG. CO. / WATERBURY". The trousers are also made from dark indigo-blue wool satinet material. The trousers lack the welt or stripe down the outer seam according to the regulations but they are clearly military trousers. They have the period rise in the back gusset of the trousers. The trousers are trimmed with two front pockets each with a single cloth covered metal button to close it. The waist has six buttons; three made from metal and three from bone. The waist is held together with a single metal button and the button fly has four bone buttons. The rear adjustment strap has been altered by cutting the center section with the buckle out and sewing it to the trousers. These trousers show signs of use with some period repairs and minor mothing throughout.

This early wartime single-breasted uniform coat with trousers is a worthy investment and at the same time would enhance any collection of military cloth or personal display.

(536-01) $6,950.00

Presented here is a very handsome, Civil War, company-grade staff officer's uniform frock dress coat in extraordinarily fine condition. Circa 1860s, this original, lined and padded, expensively tailor-made military garment is a very high-quality frock coat made of rich, dark indigo-blue wool satinet material and somewhat atypical of what most company grade ranks (Lieutenants and Captains) wore.

Coat exhibits prominent design pattern features such as the wider sleeves (8" at elbow) and the tightly gathered shoulder seams at the sleeves. This original frock coat is constructed using a multi-piece body consisting of two, one-piece front / side panels, four individual back panels, neck collar and sleeves, along with pleated split skirts. Interior front torso and ribcage, as well as the interior upper back and neck area of the coat have been wonderfully padded in a narrow, tight-ribbed design. Entire padded interior area plus the full-length skirts are covered with a shiny, high-grade dark green polished cloth lining in excellent condition. One inside slash pocket is accommodated for on the left side of this frock coat.

After close examination, the exterior of the frock coat reveals just two tiny nips on the front panel, one the back seam, and one on the right elbow sleeve area. Uniform features a one-piece, 2" high standing neck collar of the same fine satinet material which is backed on the inside with smooth black velvet lining. Velvet is free of nips, holes or fraying and stitching strong and tight. No provision for a brass hook with eyelet is sewn to the collar base. Sewn to each of the exterior shoulder board areas are the officer's military shoulder straps and appear to of those from Schuyler, Hartley and Graham. Length of the each strap measures 4¼" long by 1¾" wide. Straps are in excellent to mint condition and are constructed with a combination of gold and dead bullion arranged in a outer double border, each border being 3/8" wide. A thin 'Jaceron wire' border flanks the inner and outer edge of both straps as well as the edges of the four rank devices, i.e. two Captain's rank bars set at both ends of the each strap. Devices are sewn to the black velvet field that is in excellent plus condition.

Coat sleeves are of the early pattern design, constructed with a single panel folded over and sewn. The sleeves measure 25" long, are just 8½" wide across the elbow and 4¾" wide at the coat cuffs. Each cuff is functional and displays three, lined, cuff size, staff 3-piece Eagle "Shield" brass buttons sewn at the cuff opening. All cuff buttons are in excellent condition with beautiful gold gilt, fine detail and all are backmarked with "HORSTMANN NEW YORK". Uniform coat features a single-breasted display of nine, original, coat-size, Eagle "Shield" brass buttons in excellent plus condition, all arranged in single vertical row of nine buttons down the coat front. Stitching has separated from one coat button on the front of coat but button is retained in the inside pocket. Each button is excellent and exhibits very fine gold gilt with "HORSTMANN & CO NY & PHI" on a fine-lined background.

Both interior sleeve lengths are tightly lined with a light-colored, polished linen material. Upper interior lining (armpit) of each sleeve exhibits just light use and no tears or frying whatever. Rear skirt of the coat is made with a center split, a.k.a. vent, and has folded tails with a large pocket flap worked into each tail. Each coat tail has two, large size, Eagle "Shield" buttons in place with one button sewn at the outside split and a button sewn at each inner pocket flap. Buttons in excellent plus condition. An original Civil War officer's crimson waist sash also accompanies this frock coat.

Fine, original, Civil War military garments, such as this Federal uniform frock coat specimen in such wonderful condition, are highly sought after by today's collecting fraternity. This wartime single-breasted uniform coat is a worthy investment and at the same time would enhance any collection of military cloth or personal display.

(172-1569) $6,950.00

Here is a fine opportunity to acquire an original, Civil War, Union artilleryman's shell jacket in excellent condition. Complete in all respects, this specimen is in truly wonderful condition.

Constructed of heavy wool material dyed a deep indigo blue, the color of this shell jacket is vivid and bright. Jacket front exhibits an 11-button closure with eleven original brass eagle 'shield' buttons securely sewn to the flap edge with original stitching intact. Button backmarks read "SCOVILLE & CO / EXTRA". Shell retains its single, black-japanned, single-hook and clasp sewn to the jacket's standup collar. Collar measures approximately 2" tall and displays four rows of 3/8" wide, artillery-red, worsted wool herringbone piping or tape on the collar exterior. Two, small, cuff size eagle 'shield' brass buttons adorn each side of the collar and punctuate the rows of red braid. The standard red piping runs the length of the buttonhole-side front flap and decorates the entire bottom edge of the jacket. On the shell's backside, piping rises from the two belt-rest pads, a.k.a. 'pillows' sewn to the waist area and highlights the standard "V" cut from pillow to shoulder. Sleeve cuffs are non-functional and both feature a stripe chevron of red braid on the outside cuff.

Jacket's original coarse brown wool interior lining is in excellent condition with just two spots of thinning / fraying notable near the right inner armpit. Jacket sleeves are lined with white cotton / muslin material in excellent condition with light sweat staining marks. No holes visible on the cotton cloth. On the upper right sleeve next to the shoulder's inner stitching is the government's inspector stamping within a rectangular box, a large oval U.S. Ordnance marking and the jacket sizing number, all done in black ink. The very clear stamping reads "GOV'T MANUFACTURE / JNO. SKERRITT, INSP / ST. LOUIS, MO". The jacket sizing mark is a 1" high, script numeral "3" printed within an oval border. Unfortunately, the large US Ordnance marking has been painted over and blotted out with black ink but traces of the oval outline and individual letters remain visible. Found on the interior lining below the neck is a grouping of ¾" high stenciled letters and numerals in black ink, most likely from a post-war custom company. In addition, remnants of a handwritten note, possibly a name or initials done in pencil, are visible just above the black inkblot. Exterior of this jacket body is in remarkable condition with one small moth nip near the left side pillow. The red worsted wool braiding on the jacket is bright, clean and tight with no fraying, ripping or wear through. A very fine pair of original, brass, sergeant's shoulder scales is attached to the jacket shoulders.

Less expensive to produce than the army frock coats, these artillery shell jackets were a comfortable and durable uniform garment worn by Union mounted soldiers during the war. This good-looking, Civil War artillery shell jacket is a super-fine, St. Louis Depot government-issue specimen. If the collector is seeking a fine original Civil War shell jacket, this is it.

(M19668) $3,250.00

Here is a fine opportunity to acquire an original, Civil War, Union artilleryman's shell jacket in very good to excellent condition. Complete with its brown inner wool lining, this original specimen is in truly wonderful condition. Constructed of heavy wool material dyed a deep indigo blue, the color of this shell jacket is still vivid and bright. Jacket front exhibits an 11-button closure with eleven original brass eagle 'shield' buttons securely sewn to the flap edge with original stitching intact. Shell retains its single, black-japanned, single-hook sewn to the jacket's standup collar which measures approximately 2" tall and displays four rows of 3/8" wide, artillery-red, worsted wool herringbone piping or tape on the collar exterior. Two, small, cuff size eagle 'shield' brass buttons adorn each side of the collar and punctuate the rows of red braid. The standard red piping runs the length of the buttonhole-side front flap and decorates the entire bottom edge of the jacket. On the shell's backside, piping rises from the two belt-rest pads, a.k.a. 'pillows' sewn to the waist area and highlights the standard "V" cut from pillow to shoulder. Each of the functional sleeve cuffs features a stripe of red braid in a chevron shape.

Interior brown wool lining of this jacket is in remarkably fine condition with just one spot of thinning notably the inner side pocket. Jacket sleeves are lined with white cotton or muslin material in very good condition. Two quarter-size holes appear on the cotton material at the armpit. Next to the shoulder's inner stitching on the upper right sleeve area is a circular, Cincinnati depot inspector's mark or stamping done in black ink. Mark is a bit smudged but the stamping can be deciphered which reads "_____ STEPHENSON / U.S. INSP / CINCTI. O." A large numeral "2" (¾" high) is stamped above the depot mark. Two smaller black dots (1/2" dia) are also stamped adjacent to the depot mark and indicate the size of this jacket. Exterior of this jacket body is in remarkable and excellent condition and exhibits three, very small moth nips scattered about the body. The jacket's red worsted wool braiding is bright, clean and tight with no fraying, ripping or wear through. Original enlisted brass shoulder scales are attached to the jacket shoulders.

Less expensive to produce than the army frock coats, these artillery shell jackets were a comfortable and durable uniform garment worn by Union mounted soldiers during the war. This good-looking, Civil War artillery shell jacket is a wonderful, government-issue specimen and if a collector is seeking a fine original shell jacket at a reasonable price, stop looking - you have found it.

(M19549) $2,750.00

Gray with black trimmed collar and false cuffs. Black shoulder tabs. Seven New York state "Excelsior" buttons down front. Half lining of red wool. Sleeves lined with cotton and marked with old post Civil War costume company. Coat tails with black facings and skirt pockets. Fold down collar with two buttonholes - no buttons on opposite collar. All wool superb. Although it is not known which unit of the New York State Militia wore this pattern of overcoat, it is of the Civil War era. The 71st Regiment of New York State Militia wore a similar coat of dark blue. The regiment which wore this overcoat was one of the numerous gray-clad New York Militia units. Coat examined by and dated by a leading museum curator and cloth expert.

(258-14) ORIGINALLY $3,750.00
REDUCED TO $3,250.00

Presented here is a handsome Pennsylvania militia or cadet uniform tailcoat from the 1880's in very good original condition. Garment is partially identified with the name of "W. H. Webb" stamped twice on the upper area of the interior lining. No research has been done on Webb as yet. The tailcoat is constructed of dark blue wool and trimmed with red wool cuff facings and red wool facings on both tails. Maker-marked at the collar with "Boylan & Co / 135 Grand St. / NY", the double-breasted coat front displays fourteen, coat-size, brass, Pennsylvania State seal buttons aligned in two vertical columns. All the 23mm buttons are in excellent condition with beautiful gold gilt, fine detail and all are backmarked with "Waterbury Button Co. Conn.". A low, standing collar at the neck is lined with polished green cotton cloth and exterior is trimmed with a thin bead of light blue piping. Collar features a japanned hook with eyelet sewn to the collar base. Shoulders features ornate cloth straps or epaulettes sewn to the uniform and secured by a single ball button. Each strap has a light blue colored field bordered with 3/8" wide gold bullion piping or braid and a 27mm high, gold bullion numeral "4" on each field as a regimental device.

Tailor-made, the stylish coatee is a fully lined and padded garment constructed from high-quality satinet wool material that retains its bright, vibrant scarlet color. Body features a double-breasted front closure with a row of seven coat-size brass buttons down each panel. Coat exhibits prominent design pattern features such as the wider sleeves (8" at elbow). Sleeves are later pattern constructed with two sewn panels. Each non-functional cuff displays three, coat-size, State seal brass buttons on a red wool scalloped facing bordered with a thin strip of gold piping. Interior front torso and ribcage, as well as the interior upper back area of the coat have been padded. Padded interior covers the main body areas with a beige-colored cotton material. Full-tails are not padded but lined. with a shiny, polished, green cloth lining in good condition. Tailcoat has two inside slash pockets is remarkably free of moth nips or holes. It does however exhibit some minor seam stitching weak spots about the body. Both interior sleeve lengths are tightly lined with a beige-colored linen material. Rear skirt of the coat is made with a center split, a.k.a. vent, and has folded tails with no flap pockets. Both coat tails are decorated with edge trimming of red wool and each has a red wool facing similar to the cuff facing with three buttons in place.

This colorful single-breasted militia uniform set is a fine collectible and would enhance any collection of military cloth or a personal display.

(542-01) $450.00

Mint condition sky blue overcoat made by the famous company of Brooks Brothers on Broadway in New York City. Coat is made of the finest doeskin with a fashionable bright red lining. Inside pocket has Brooks Brothers tag with inked name of owner "Robert C. Hill, May 11, 1894." The outside is in very good condition with some light storage dirt and light wear. The back lower skirt also has two, hard to see stains of some kind. They are very light but of a yellowish hugh. Coat has large roll down collar with two New York Excelsior buttons. Cape has 5 button front with all buttons present. The back of the cape has a button hole for keeping the cape in place but the button in that area is missing. The coat itself has a 6-button front with all buttons present. At the waist, on the right front side, there is a small watch pocket. On the left there is a single belt loop stitched at the bottom and held by a New York Excelsior button at top. There is no belt loop on the right side and no sign of there ever having been one. Each cuff is pointed with a button at the apex. The back has a folded, scalloped pleat with 4 New York Excelsior buttons and tail pockets with brown polished cotton linings. Two buttons at middle back are US Eagle buttons.

Inside lining is red wool in body with light muslin sleeve lining. There is an area of separation along the seam of the body lining and the muslin in each shoulder is worn and separated at the seam. Breast pocket is present with label mentioned above. This is obviously one of the finer military garments of the period made for one of the premier New York units by the best clothing maker in the country at the time.

(198-469) $800.00

This rare and unusual woolen uniform item is an original pair of Federal Army Civil War 'mounted' uniform pants or trousers, sometimes referred to as 'saddled' trousers. Worn by enlisted Union cavalrymen or light artillerymen, these trouser specimens are seldom seen today in the collecting fraternity. Made of sky-blue wool kersey, these trousers are in good strong condition overall with no visible stampings or markings. They feature a 33" waist with an inseam of 28" and measure 9" wide across the widest portion of the trouser leg. Pants are cut full and are not lined but feature a second layer of the heavy wool cloth sewn to the outside of the seat / thigh area of the trousers. This 'saddled' layer was used to help extend the life of the cloth due to the hard use the trousers received from being worn against the saddle leather. The unlined trousers exhibit a 2" wide, white linen inner waistband (now turned a beige-color) that is in remarkably good condition. Waistband supports a slit pocket on each side of trousers. Other features are a button-down fly that retains its four original, 15mm, tin, 4-hole garment buttons tightly sewn to the opening and a pocket watch slit in the right front of the waistband. No provision for a wool belt adjuster band. All trouser seam stitching appears to be original and is in strong tight condition save for a 3" long portion of the "V" re-enforcing band on the inner rear waistband that has separated. Trouser waist and upper leg areas, in front and in back, exhibit numerous scattered tiny / small moth nips and holes from insect damage overall. The largest hole measures 1½" long x ½" wide on the backside with five additional holes approximately ½" in diameter scattered about. Trousers still retain all seven tin waist buttons as well as the eight 12mm tin buttons sewn to each of the inner trouser cuffs, four buttons per cuff. No cloth cuff straps included. This Civil War cavalry / light artillery pair of rare mounted trousers a wonderful woolen artifact of the Union army and would make a superlative addition to any collection of period military cloth.

(M18574) $20,000.00

This original, Civil War regulation, vest specimen is a Federal officer's dark indigo blue, wool satinet uniform garment in wonderfully outstanding condition. A most handsome uniform piece, the vest is a finely tailored military accoutrement produced by a Baltimore, Maryland firm identified as Thomas McCormick & Brother. The maker's mark, a fine cloth lapel exhibited on the interior upper lining, reads "MADE BY / Thom. McCormick & Bro. / MERCHANT TAILORS, / 149 W. Baltimore Street, / Corner of Calvert Street, / First Class Clothing at Prices to Suit the Times." The Baltimore Business Directory in 1863 lists McCormick under 'tailors' and 'military goods' at 149 West Baltimore Street where he continued his business until 1868. Vest is in very fine condition and is manufactured with dark indigo blue, satinet-wool material. Vest interior boasts a very fine, beige-colored linen inner lining with no tears or rips. Some underarm sweat stains are visible. Backing on the vest is finished in classic, dark-brown polished cotton in wonderful condition and is complete with the waist adjustment strap that still retains its black-japanned tie clasp. Lining and backing material both in very excellent condition. Vest front features eight, tinback brass buttons, all cuff-size Eagle-shield "I" types in beautiful condition with no blemishes, dents or depressed faces. Buttons are secured to the material without stitching. Small, 1/8" diameter hand-whipped holes provide a pass-through for the button shanks that are then secured via small brass cotter pin like devices. All nine buttonholes on the vest are tight with hand-whipped stitching and no fraying. Vest is missing one button at the very bottom of the run and displays three slash pockets on the front; two at the waist and one at the upper left side. Scattered about the front facing are six to ten, tiny spots of light insect damage, all on the left side. This Federal officer's uniform vest is a superb representative example of Civil War uniform cloth that would enhance any personal display or military cloth collection.

(344-17) $3,950.00

Here, in fantastic original condition, is a handsome, unidentified militia officer's kepi manufactured by a Union County, Pennsylvania merchant named John M. Taylor of Lewisburg. A clear and strong maker's mark printed in gold gilt reads "J. M. TAYLOR / LEWISBURG / PA." and is found on the inside cloth of the kepi's crown. Records are scarce on John M. Taylor and he is not listed in B. Bazelon's and McGuinn's "Directory of American Military Goods Dealers and Makers 1785-1915." Taylor is listed as a merchant on the Lewisburg Borough property lists for Union County, PA in October 1864 according to the Mifflinburg tax assessor. John M. Taylor was a businessman of some means as he was taxed on a number of Union County holdings that included acreage, town lots, buildings, cattle, horses, and carriages. One entry in the Mifflinburg Telegraph Weekly Newspaper in late 1852 reported that the old County jail was sold to John M. Taylor who 'converted it into a dwelling'. In 1864, Taylor was taxed on personal property valued at $2,400.00, a hefty sum of money for the time. Taylor was instrumental in the manufacturing of military uniform-style kepis in Lewisburg, PA as attested to by this fine kepi specimen that bears his name but no records of his manufacturing facility have been found as yet.

Constructed in the French 'chasseur pattern' style that was prevalent prior to and during the American Civil War, this private purchase kepi was manufactured by Taylor's clothing firm in Lewisburg to serve the many and varied pre-Civil War militia companies that were common in both the North and the South. Similar to the French uniform caps of that period, the kepi had a lower profile, exhibited a less pronounced slope at the crown, and displayed a straight, flat visor or brim. This type of kepi was worn usually by officers who had some freedom of dress in their uniform choice.

The officer cap specimen here measures 4" high from base to top of crown and is approximately a size 7". The exterior body is constructed of high quality, deep blue indigo, wool satinet cloth that is absolutely in choice condition. It shows almost no wear or mothing at all save one tiny moth nip on the right side near the juncture with the visor. Top of the circular crown features a 5" diameter pasteboard disc covered in a red wool cloth that is free of any nips or blemishes. Crown is void of any piping or rank design. The colors of both the blue and the red wool cloth are rich and vibrant, not faded or worn. In addition, kepi features single, 1/8" wide vertical lines of gold piping or braiding that emanate from the crown's 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions and traverse downward at an angle on the cloth sides. Piping terminates at a single horizontal band of gold piping that encircles the entire exterior of the kepi. Another single row of gold braid runs along the exterior edge brim from visor tip to visor tip.

The original flat, thick leather, tarred visor is in excellent, strong condition and tightly sewn to the brim with no repairs evident. The reddish brown-colored Moroccan leather sweatband measures 1 3/8" high and rings the entire inner brim area of the cap. The thin leather is in excellent condition with tight original stitching to the brim. One small area of sweatband brim stitching has separated from the body at the right visor tip. Some slight edge scuffing visible on the band from age and use. Inside crown is lined with a dark brown, unpolished, twill cloth material that is lightly padded, while the kepi's inner crown disc is covered with a slightly darker brown, quilted cotton cloth. Though its surface bears slight rubbing and sweat marks, the maker's name "J. M. TAYLOR / LEWISBURG / PA." is strongly stamped in faded gold gilt on the disc's center with ¼" high block letters. Kepi is complete with its thick, unbroken, tarred leather visor or brim tightly stitched to the body. Also the kepi appears never to have had a chinstrap, cloth brim band, or any brass, cuff-size buttons on either side of the cap.

This fantastic looking, pre-Civil War militia officer's kepi in such great original condition is a uniform specimen worthy of any Pennsylvania military display or of any Civil War era headgear collection.

(72-16) ORIGINALLY $5,500.00
REDUCED TO $3,950.00

This highly desirable article of Federal Civil War uniform cloth is a fine piece of regulation headgear commonly referred to as a M1858 forage cap. Issued to most Federal soldiers as part of their Civil War uniform, this all-original, dark blue forage cap is a fine complete specimen that appears to have been worn by an unknown Union cavalryman at one time.

In very fine original condition, this regulation forage cap is constructed of dark indigo blue wool and comes complete with its tarred leather visor (brim), leather chin strap, two original, eagle 'C' brass buttons, original leather sweatband and remnants of its original interior lining. Cap measures 5" high when the crown is extended and features a 6¾" wide black leather visor, a.k.a. brim. Visor lays flat and is made of thin bridle leather and is strongly stitched to the cap brim. The narrow (½" wide) leather chinstrap measures 11" long and retains its original brass adjuster. Secured to each end of the chinstrap is an original, cuff-size, eagle "C" brass button, both of which exhibit some traces of gold gilt and are in excellent condition. The dark blue wool forage cap exterior is in extraordinarily fine original condition with just a single tiny moth nip at the back center seam near the crown. Original reddish-colored stitching is tight and strong along all the seams, including the brim, crown and front and back center seam. The sewn-in crown exterior features a wool-covered, stiff circular pasteboard disc that measures 5¾" in diameter and slants or droops downward toward the face when cap is worn. Crown exterior's dark blue wool cloth surface is completely free of any moth nips or damage.

Interior surface of the crown features polished brown cloth lining that displays the contractor's original small 1" x 1" paper label glued to the lining. Label reads "Size No. 3 / 7 1/8 / U. S. ARMY / M. & G." M & G refer to contractors Thomas Murphy and William C. Griswold of New York City who had government contracts to produce the M1858 Army Caps. This forage cap retains approximately 50% of the original polished brown cloth interior lining but lining suffers from tearing and fraying. Cap's interior leather sweatband is made of thin, dark brown leather and is in fair condition with moderate edge scuffing and surface grime. Band measures 1¾" high and exhibits a 7" section that has lost its stitching and has separated from the coarse wool backing behind the band. Center seam of the sweatband is completely separated and loosely attached to the wool backing. Rest of band is tight to the kepi's brim. Top and bottom sides of the leather visor exhibit just normal surface marks and no rips or tears.

Original Civil War Federal infantry forage caps are difficult to find in any condition in the collecting community. If one seeks such an original Civil War forage cap in fine to very fine condition, you have found it here.

(218-300) $2,750.00

This very fine, original infantry shako is an excellent specimen of an early, pre-Civil War article of militia headgear known as a Model 1851 infantry enlisted shako. Commercially constructed by clothing manufacturer "Bent & Bush" of Boston, the headpiece is of felt material and is based on the French 1851 Pattern army shako. This maker-marked enlisted cap is similar to those worn by early New England militia units ca. 1845 to 1855 and was intended mainly for dress occasions. Issued to various State units and some Union troops early in the Civil War, this wonderful shako is very similar to the headgear worn by the 6th Massachusetts Volunteer Militia during the Pratt Street Riot in Baltimore on April 19, 1861.

Constructed of heavy, black felt material stiffened with a shellac / alcohol solution, this army shako measures 7" high and has a straight vertical crown that features a stamped brass eagle device affixed to the front with a bent wire hook. Directly beneath the eagle device is a large, brass stamped company letter "E" in wonderful condition. Both the eagle and the letter wear a pleasing dark bronze patina. The black felt shako exterior is in very fine original condition with just some slight fading overall. A ½" wide welt of felt navigates completely around the cap and peaks at the center front in chevron-style. The shako's narrow (1/2" wide) black leather chinstrap with its brass adjusting loop sits at the base of the crown was secured on either side of the cap with two, gold-gilt cuff-size, general issue 'Eagle I' buttons. Both buttons are in very good condition. However, the leather chinstrap has completely separated at the buttons but remains with the shako and could be easily repaired. Leather surface of the strap exhibits cracking and some flaking. Cap felt exterior exhibits five or six small moth nips located mostly on the backside of the shako. Some fading is also evident to the exterior.

The three sections of the crown are tightly stitched but the felt band edging exhibits a single 1" area on the cap's backside where the stitching has separated from the body. However, it does not detract from the overall appearance of the shako. Backing of the shako crown top is a heavy pasteboard material in very fine strong condition, while the cap interior lining is of a dark brown colored polished cotton material. A 4½" high, adjustable, scalloped sweatband of black leather veneer runs along the interior base of the shako. The peaks of the band are perforated with a single hole to accommodate a twine or leather adjustment tong, now missing. Sweatband is in very good to excellent overall condition with a few scattered scuffmarks. Backside of the band shows slight separation where the cap body meets the leather band. A thick, flat, tarred leather visor, in very good condition, shows some light surface crazing visible. Sewn to the base of shako, the visor stitching appears to be a period repair. Interior cloth lining is in excellent condition and bears the stamped maker's name of "Bent & Bush / Boston".

This 1851 Pattern infantry shako is a very fine example of militia or early war cover and would make a unique and decorative centerpiece for any military headgear collection.

(258-85) $4,950.00

Ca. 1898-1900 Regulation "Snowflake" side vents, w/standard three rows of stitching around outer brim. Also has the standard one inch brown ribbon w/left side bow, w/non-regulation stamp "Columbia" in half inch lettering [much faded] to the front. Interior sweat band marking: "Regulation/ U.S./ Army Hat", w/ padded lining. Sweat band ink inscription [just ahead of regulation marking] "F. Johnson". Small size: 6 ½ to 6 5/8. Non-regulation "1902" shoestring neck strap [easily removable]. Interior sweatband somewhat worn. Exterior exhibits a pair of light spots on brim, else vg w/regulation drab patina. A solid Span-Am campaign display hat.

(169-110) $3,250.00

This remarkable article of United States Army headgear is an early period, black felt hat that was referred to as a 'bicorn' or 'chapeau de bras'. Like most American uniforms of that period, this hat followed the French / Napoleonic influence in design. Worn by all line and staff officers of the army, this type chapeau was worn at a slight angle or 'sideways' atop the head.

The chapeau was produced in the early 1820's to the late 1830's by the firm of Charles St. John, hatter in New York City. Constructed of stiff black felt, the officer's chapeau has a 5½" high, 8½" wide, rounded crown that is hidden by a front facing, 8¼" high, steeply curved upright brim. Brim is 15" wide at the base and tapers up to a 6" wide, top edge. Likewise, the back of crown has a higher 9½" steeply curved, upright brim that has the same dimensions as the front. Hat has no visor. Front upright brim is decorated with a circular patch of fine, black, silk material approximately 7" wide diameter sewn to the felt. Attached to the black silk at the top edge of the hat is a thin, brass, spread-winged eagle insignia facing to his right, with a set of five arrows in his right talon and an olive branch in his left talon. Directly below the eagle is a hand-sewn decoration of black shiny beads that form an intricate, unknown design. Bottom portion of the design stitching has frayed and appears to be missing a number of the black beads. A 2½" wide band of high quality, black ribbon is glued to the front center of the brim and forms a large 'V' pattern. Inside edge of the hat crown has the original 2¼" wide buff colored leather sweatband that exhibits a few rips and tears. A beige-colored cloth of silk or polished cotton material is used as a liner inside the crown. Clearly visible on the original liner is the maker's stamp in black ink that reads, "C. St. JOHN, / 118 / BROADWAY, / New York". Liner is torn and exhibits rips and large areas of fraying.

Black felt surface of the hat is stiff but faded with areas of moderate soiling and grime. Top right side of the back brim has two, 1½" long tears along the edge. To set this chapeau off as an artillery or rifle officer's hat is a 4" long tassel made of spun gold and dead bullion that is attached via a small brass button pinned to the body.

This surviving article of U.S. military headdress worn by American officers in the early part of the 1800's is a fine original specimen that would make a fitting addition to any collection of U.S. Army headgear.

(413-01) $3,950.00

Here, in fine original condition, is an identified, late 19th century, black felt hat often referred to as a "bicorn' or 'chapeau de bras'. The owner, George M. Maxim, has his name typed upon a small slip of paper that is enclosed in a thin, metal, pinback frame device. No research has been performed on Maxim at this point.

This hat specimen was manufactured by the Ames Sword Company of Chicopee, Massachusetts, and is so prominently labeled on the inside crown. Evolved from the famous edged weapons facility at Ames Manufacturing Company, Chicopee, Mass., the Ames Sword Company was formed at Chicopee in May 1881 and had a branch facility in Chicago, IL. The Ames Sword Company firm made military uniforms as well as other equipment and lasted until the 1920's when it was taken over by the M.C. Lilley Co. of Columbus, Ohio.

The head cover appears to be a component of a fraternal or late militia uniform ensemble and exhibits no military hardware, i.e. buttons, badges, or cockades etc. Obviously an officer's piece, this finely crafted head cover is designed with a 'front to back' arrangement, sometimes called "fore and aft" in the trade. This profile was adopted after the Civil War and is constructed of stiff black felt, the chapeau has a 5" high, 6½" high, rounded crown. The long brim is approximately 17" long and both fore and aft portions are folded over and rest on the top surface of the brim. The fore (front) brim measures 2¼" wide at the tip and tapers back to 5½" at the base of the rounded crown. Right side of the crown exhibits a thin, decorative black cording that measures 2" high x 8½" long and is sewn and bound to the chapeau. The center of the crown base bears a fine, silk ribbon approximately 2½" in length and secures one end of a wonderfully majestic plume of vibrant, black ostrich feathers that hugs the entire exterior of the crown.

Interior of the crown exhibits a folded and tucked black, polished cloth as a liner and displays the Ames maker's stamping in clear, large, silver script. Hat features a 1¾" high, brown leather sweatband strongly stitched to the brim and is in very fine original condition with no rips or tears. A small, ½" square label denoting size 7½ appears glued to the sweatband. In addition, two sheets of period writing paper have been folded over and placed behind the band to help adjust the hat size to the owner's head. The chapeau is a very fine example of a popular head cover worn by many fraternal organizations near the turn of the century.

(441-01) $250.00

John P. Langellier. Hardback w/dustjacket from Schiffer Publishing. 184 pp. Measures 9 1/2" x 12 1/4".

Hats Off offers a concise history of U.S. Army headgear from the immediate post Civil War era to the eve of World War I. In this study historial John P. Langellier shares more than a quarter of a century of research in archives, museums, and private collections throughout the nation. An informative text is supported by nearly 400 illustrations of rare and important military headdress. The volume is destined to become a standard reference for collectors, curators, and those interested in American military uniforms from the Indian Wars through the early 20th century.

(111) $69.95

Gordon Chappell. Hardcover, 128 pp. Thomas Publications.

Heavily illustrated volume identifying an array of helmets. Gordon Chappell, after more than thirty years of extensive research, identifies an array of helmets, answering questions about when, where, and how such helmets were manufactured and worn. Using specimens from museums, private collections, & historic photographs, Chappell has completed the definitve work on American military helmets from 1872-1904. Detailed and extensively illustrated with over 160 photographs.

(500868) $29.95

Michael J. Winey. Softbound, 76 pp. Published 1998 by Thomas Publications.

What were the men of the Army of the Potomac wearing when they arrived at the battlefields of Gettysburg in July 1863 after their month long march northward from Virginia in pursuit of Lee's Army? This survey attempts to depict those men on the summer campaign of 1863, during the last three weeks of June, and afterward, as they followed Lee's retreating Confederates back to Virginia. Recent motion pictures, documentaries and videos do not necessarily depict the Union army as it really was. This study attempts to offer a view of the Union army as seen from the eyes of the participants, the officers and soldiers themselves, as well as civilian onlookers.

(154) $12.95