CIRCA 1835 US DIPLOMAT’S COAT

$4,250.00

Quantity Available: 1

Item Code: 622-410

This is a colorful, elegant, and very high-grade cut-away tail coat in excellent condition with no mothing whatsoever and just one small tear under one arm. The coat is single breasted, fitted with bright gilt brass buttons and rich bullion floral embroidery on the deep blue collar, cuffs, and rear pocket flaps. The body is dark blue wool, lined with white silk also in excellent condition. We would date it to the mid-1830s from the cut of the sleeves, etc. We see only a little rubbing to some of the bullion embroidery, natural from wear, and there is a bit of resewing inside one of the non-functional cuffs, also natural from wear.

Collar and cuff buttons are in place. The two on the rear waist are missing. The buttons are gilt brass, one-piece, with no backmark and the face showing the arms of the U.S. with both ribbon and stars above the eagle. They are similar to Albert’s OD category of Official and Diplomatic Buttons and to Tice OD233, but Tice’s examples have either a ring of stars around the eagle and ribbon or substitute stars for the ribbon. Tice describes the type as, “a diverse group of buttons made for diplomats, consular personnel, officials, and militia officers who wished to wear buttons with a patriotic device.”

This coat is obviously meant for formal diplomatic occasions. It displays impressively and as a physical symbol of the country’s increasing presence on the international stage in the 19th century would make a nice adjunct to a U.S. naval collection or a display related to U.S. diplomatic history. We also occasionally get U.S. diplomatic swords of the period that would go well with this. We can’t help but add one very interesting detail about this coat. The wearer added short braided black loops to the button holes on front of the coat, enabling it be worn somewhat open or given him just a little extra room, perhaps necessary from a few too many large, but necessary diplomatic dinners.  [sr] [ph:m/L]

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