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CIVIL WAR OFFICER’S EMBOIDERED BULLION HARDEE HAT SIDE EAGLE

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A very good, unused example of the bullion embroidered side plate used to hold up one side of the brim on the M1858 army officer’s dress hat, known as the Hardee or Jeff Davis hat in collector shorthand. The style of hat had its origins in the “Kossuth” hat, named after the Hungarian politician and revolutionary of 1848 who later made a popular tour of the U.S. The pattern got a tryout with the new cavalry regiments of 1855, and was adopted army-wide in 1858. Enlisted versions of the insignia were simply stamped brass. The officer’s version is gold and silver bullion embroidered on a black velvet ground in oval shape with jaceron wire border. This is sewn over an internal stiffener and given a polished cotton backing, with the stiffener having two fastening loops that would be pushed through slits in the side of the hat and secured inside. All these elements are in place and secure. It also still retains two brass split rings for securing the loops once on the hat, and even has the original small military goods dealer’s paper label with inventory or price code on it in ink.

The condition is very good, with the gold and silver showing softening of color from age, but all the bullion coils, thread, sequins, and even the red eye of the eagle in place. The velvet retains its black nap with no holes or wear spots though the fabric has stretched a bit showing the underlying fabric as slightly lighter color streaks.

This would add to an officer’s display or a collection of Civil War insignia, particularly bullion insignia, which has a lot of variety and eye-appeal, not to mention history. The eagle faces to the viewer’s left, indicating it was intended to be worn holding up the left side of the brim, and thus face forward, though perhaps not all officers were attuned to such niceties.   [sr][ph:L]

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