A DELIGHTFULLY CHARMING C1886 – 1890 NATURAL COLOR SILK BUSTLE DRESS

A DELIGHTFULLY CHARMING C1886 – 1890 NATURAL COLOR SILK BUSTLE DRESS

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$750.00

Quantity Available: 1

Item Code: 1307-22

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In the mid-1890s, the prevailing fashion began to soften. Steel bustles began to be replaced with pillows; structured petticoats with tape ties create shaping. Additional fabric added to the front of the bodice and the skirt made the draping on the dress softer, fuller, and less structured. This dress shows all of these characteristics, plus a watch pocket!

The dress is made from lightweight silk in a fancy weave. Seven rows of shirring encircle the neck. The shirred fabric releases in soft folds on the front and back of the bodice until the fullness is controlled once again with narrow rows of shirring on either side of the center front opening and at the center back. The bodice closed with hooks and tiny hand-sewn eyelets. A self-fabric waistband is attached to the bottom of the bodice.

A standing box-pleated collar, lined in fuchsia silk, encircles the neck. A box-pleated lace ruffle is attached to the neckline inside the collar. A similar ruffle is attached to the outside of the neckline and continues down the center front opening. Fashion magazines encouraged using a rosy shade like fuchsia near the neck to enhance the “roses in the wearer’s cheeks”. An original garnet bar pin with a classic tubular hinge and C clasp is still attached to the dress at the neck, enhancing the color of the fuchsia lining. The narrow 2-piece sleeves are shaped at the elbow with gathers. A gathered self-fabric bias band is sewn to the bottom of the sleeves; accented with a stuffed and twisted self-fabric cord. The sleeves are finished with self-fabric double piping and a pleated ruffle of the same lace.

The skirt is styled in a continuous cascade of off-set pleated scallops; the bottom of each scallop is finished with a ruffle of the lace. The bottom of the skirt is accented with a row of spaced off-set double-boxed pleats. The bottom edge of the underskirt is finished with wool hem tape. A watch pocket is inserted between the top of the skirt and the bottom of the waistband at the left center front. Neither the bodice nor the skirt is lined, making the dress surprisingly light given all of the draping. The main seams on the bodice and the skirt were sewn on a chainstitch sewing machine. All of the shirring, gathering, pleating, draping and eyelets were handsewn.

Measurements: Bust =35", Waist = 25", Front Skirt Length = 41", Back Skirt Length = 45". Condition: Very Good.  [cs] [ph:L]

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