This regulation issue Union army forage cap bears its original paper maker’s label on the underside of the top reading, "Size / N[.] 3, / 7 / U.S. Army / L J & I P." Lewis J. and Isaac Phillips of New York had huge army contracts for caps every year of the war, furnishing some 35,000 in 1861, 175,000 or more in 1862, 251,000 in 1863, 330,200 in 1864, and even 50,000 on a contract of January 1, 1865. From the slightly smaller crown and taller body this is likely from one of their earlier contracts. Derived from the prewar army shakos, which often softened to this form when wet, and following current French military fashions, the forage or fatigue cap was meant to be the counterpart to the army dress hat (the wide brimmed “Hardee” hat,) but was quickly recognized as the characteristic headgear of the Union soldier. Every soldier was likely issued several of these in the course of his service and if there was a typical forage cap, it was likely one by L. J. & I. Phillips.

The color on this is excellent and the fabric is very good. There are a few pencil-point size moth nips and a couple of slightly larger, but not big, spots that have been professionally backed with a matching fabric stitched in place and not readily visible, on the lower front, just under the top edge on the wearer’s upper right, and at bottom left rear. The chinstrap and buckle are in place, are the correct form, and appear original to the cap. The visor has some curves to it, and handling and storage marks, but has good color, finish, and is firmly attached, as is the goatskin sweatband inside that shows good color, the typical impressed cross-hatched pattern, and just light rubbing along the bottom edge with only a slight separation at the rear seam. The brown polished cotton lining is complete, in place, and shows just light wear with a few very small holes and stains. The label is fully legible, but has a slight stain at upper left and a small hole where the “o” of “No. 3” would be. (This is indicating the army standard sizing, with “7” being the equivalent actual head measurement.)

The top of the cap has some bends that give it a great, field-used look and it displays very, very well. The top has a regulation infantry hunting horn and a company letter, “G” affixed by cloth tabs pushed through the loops on their reverse on the underside of the top inside the crown. The insignia are real, of the period, and method of attaching them has a good look, but we cannot guarantee how long they have been on the cap, though the cap itself is dead real and it gives a good impression of how these caps looked once issued. This would be the centerpiece of an infantry display and a fine addition to a collection.  [sr] [ph:m]

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