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GREAT LOOKING CIVIL WAR HARDEE HAT SOLDIER-MODIFIED TO A CAMPAIGN HAT

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This hat has a lot of character! Although the Army had issued a forage cap in 1839, the closest it came to issuing a real campaign hat until after the Civil War was the Voltigeur or Andrews hat of 1847, which actually never reached its intended wearers, the Regiment of Voltigeurs and Foot Riflemen, with some 445 of the mere 500 produced only seeing belated issue in 1851 to the 2^nd Dragoons (who likely could use them, being stationed at the time in Texas.) It was only in 1872 that the Army again came to its senses and devised a campaign hat, ironically one based on the Andrew’s hat of twenty-five years earlier and which still required some improvement. During the Civil War, men seeking some sort of comfortable and practical hat for wear on campaign in place of the forage or fatigue cap were thrown on their own resources, purchasing commercial hats that fit the purpose, could be modified to do so or, as with this scarce example, modifying an issue M1858 Army dress hat.

Better known as the Hardee or Jeff Davis hat, these stiffened black felt hats were derived from a pattern adopted by the new cavalry regiments of 1855, with other units retaining the shako until it was adopted army-wide in 1858. Made of pressed and stiffened felt, the hat had a flat brim and tall crown with tapering sides and a flat top, and was intended to be worn with one side pinned up with a side plate showing the arms of the United States, and the front decorated with branch of service insignia, company and regimental designation, with an appropriately colored hat cord around the base and black ostrich plume.

In this case the soldier never added any insignia to the hat, but simply took it as issued, or purchased from the quartermaster, and pinched in the front and back of the sides and creased the stiffened top to make it more supple or at least better fitting and more comfortable. The brim shows a little waviness, but essentially remains flat and shows the lines of stitching around its circumference near the edge, used on enlisted dress hats in place of binding, still in place. Likewise the narrow black ribbon around base of the crown is still there, mostly in good shape, but with some fraying on the front, perhaps from handling as the soldier put it and took it off.

The sweatband remains in place, is 2-1/2” tall, complete, and securely sewn along its bottom edge. It shows just a small tear along one fold, expected wear to the finish and some spotting and soiling. In pinching in the front and back and creasing the top, the soldier had to bend and crack the glazed cardboard stiffener on the underside of the top, but it also remains in place. Like the sweatband, it shows expected wear and rubbing. Some of the embossed labelling is still legible. A small “US” is visible at upper left. “NEW YORK” is pretty clear. Comparison with other such labels might identify the particular contractor.

This is a great looking hat with a lot of character. The color remains strong, oxidizing just slightly toward a charcoal black with a little bit of wear, again expected, to the edge of the brim. This would make a great addition to a headgear display, a contrast with dress uniforms and headgear, or a display focused on field and campaign gear and clothing. [sr][ph:L]

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