This regulation US cavalry shell jacket has great color, very good condition, and wonderful maker and inspector markings in the sleeves. This pattern of short, dark blue jacket was made regulation in 1854 for mounted troops, who encompassed dragoons, mounted rifles, and light artillery, with orange, green, red trim. In 1855 the new cavalry regiments adopted the same jacket with yellow trim, as this one has, and this was the regulation mounted jacket for all U.S. cavalry regiments, both regular and volunteer, during the Civil War, with surplus jackets supplying the ten regular US cavalry regiments until the 1872 uniform patterns were adopted.

As is correct, the dark blue jacket is trimmed on collar, lapel, back, waist, and cuffs with yellow worsted wool tape. The cuffs are functional, with two buttons, and correctly show yellow chevrons. The back shows an arc of yellow tape on either side from the back of the shoulder joint down to the waist, ending at thick padded bolsters intended to support the weight of the saber belt, trimmed in yellow as well. The collar shows two false buttonholes indicated by buttons and long double rows of tape. The tape also runs around the top an bottom of the collar and down the (wearer’s) left lapel to show when buttoned, and then runs around the lower edge of the coat, ending at the edge of the lower right lapel. The collar fastens at bottom with a hook and eye. All the buttons, correct small general service eagle buttons, are there, but the fifth one from the top popped its thread is now held by a safety pin in its corresponding buttonhole.

The coat is solid, with tight seams and good color. There are a couple, small, pencil point moth nips inside the collar. The only repairs we see are a v-shaped tear on the exterior of the left collar repaired with black thread; a small hole similarly mended near the back center of the collar; and small hole or tear about 1 inch long, mended the same way on the lower right back about six inches up from the waist. None of these are very noticeable. The last matches a hole in the lining on the inside, which is about the only damage to the lining aside from same wear spots nearby. The lining of the body and sleeves is the correct loosely woven muslin, an off-white in color, with good seams, padded in the chest, and with a single pocket in the left breast.

The right sleeve has a brown ink “X” and a “1” stamped in the shoulder, both are likely markers for a size one jacket, the army using four standard sizes. Below that is a black ink stamp reading, “JOSEPH LEE / 64 & 66 LISPENARD & 62 WALKER ST. / New York.” This same stamp appears in the left sleeve underneath another black ink stamp reading, “U.S. Inspector / Jos. Jones. / N.Y.” Lee’s Walker Street address is a bit light on both stamps, but can be made out. Bazelon (Vol. 1) indicates Lee had several large uniform contracts and was at those two addresses in 1863-64. Bazelon mentions Lee’s contracts included over 200,000 sack coats, contracts for infantry and cavalry great coats, and at least one contract for 5,000 artillery jackets, 20,000 cavalry jackets and 2,000 cavalry musician jackets. Inspector Joseph Jones was likely attached to the New York Depot and assigned to inspect the work of local contractors with the government.

This jacket is fully regulation, complete and in very good condition with strong color. It would make a great center piece in a Civil War cavalry display.  [sr] [ph:L]

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