Military goods dealer James S. Smith of New York patented this form of shoulder strap using a gilt brass frame stamped to imitate dead and bright embroidered bullion borders fitted with pins on the back to secure a backing with the appropriate branch of service color, on which might also be pinned false-embroidered rank insignia as appropriate. These were less expensive than embroidered bullion straps, more robust, and easy to polish back to bright if the finish was worn and the brass tarnished. They were also not subject to snagging of the bullion strands or jaceron wire edging used on the embroidered straps, and also provided an easy way for an officer to show a promotion by just changing false-embroidered rank insignia that was pinned in place.

This set shows Smith’s patent marking in a red ink stencil on the back of each strap reading, “JAs. S. SMITH / PAT. JUNE 18, 1861 / 15 DUTCH ST. N.Y.” and was made for a full surgeon, showing the silver-washed false embroidered “M S” in Old English indicating Medical Staff, on the black ground typical of staff officers, and the gold leaves indicating the rank of Major, which was held by the Surgeon on the Medical Staff of a regiment in the field. The brass borders and oak leaves have a pleasing medium bright tone. One “S” shows some oxidation toward gray. The other letters are a muted silver. The backs are very good, showing the full markings, with all the pins in place, and just a couple of very small wear spots of moth nips on the backs and none on the faces. [sr][ph:L]

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