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$950.00 ON HOLD
Quantity Available: 1
Item Code: 36-106
This double-breasted, dark blue officer’s-style frock coat shows some Civil War styling indicating it might have been made for a veteran or perhaps for a militia unit that retained older, more traditional, uniform regulations. It has an embroidered maker’s label sewn in the collar reading “John Phillips & Co. / Boston,” who appear to have started advertising in 1885 and gone bankrupt in 1889. The coat is fitted out with a full set of D. Evans US General Staff buttons: two rows of 8 each on the chest, 2 at the rear waist, and one on the bottom of each false pocket opening in the skirts, and 3 smaller size buttons on each cuff. The low, standing collar measures 1” on the back seam and slightly narrower at the front edge. The sleeves have a decent 8 or 8-1/2” billow at the elbow. The cuffs are non-functional, but fitted with three small buttons each and have no sign of any cuff trim or decoration. The interior is fully lined- heavily quilted in white in the upper body with light colored striped or ribbed sleeve linings. The skirts show an older fashioned green lining. The upper body has a single breast pocket inside. The skirts have a pocket in each, opening to the inside. We don’t see any sign of shoulder straps or epaulets having been on it.
The long skirts and button arrangement are clearly meant to evoke the 1850s-1860s. The billow of the sleeve is not as wide as seen on some, but not the narrow cut seen later and neither the rather low collar or the non-functional cuffs are out of the question on a Civil War coat. The upper body and sleeve linings, however, are very postwar. The button arrangement imitates that of a Civil War field officer, but with 8 buttons in each row instead of 7, and to a degree that of the 1872 regulations that provided for two rows of 7 each for a line officer and of 9 each for field grade. The coat actually has buttonholes only on one lapel, so it opens on the wearer’s right. The condition overall is excellent. There is just a couple small moth nips and slight tracking on the skirts in line below the buttonholes. These do not go all the way through. There are two similar moth nips on the other skirt at about the same position, in line with the row of buttons. These are not obtrusive. Please see our photos.
This is an interesting coat. We note that the company donated a “$20 fatigue uniform coat” to the Soldiers Home Carnival in Boston in 1885. It is possible this was a dress coat for the same institution. [sr] [ph:L]
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