C1862-1863 AMETHYST PURPLE RIBBED WATERED SILK MOIRÉ DRESS

C1862-1863 AMETHYST PURPLE RIBBED WATERED SILK MOIRÉ DRESS

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$1,500.00

Quantity Available: 1

Item Code: 1307-42

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Woman’s amethyst purple ribbed watered silk moiré dress, c. 1862-1863, trimmed with aubergine silk taffeta ruching, originally from the Tasha Tudor collection, loaned to Colonial Williamsburg, and most recently from the Texas Civil War Museum.

The fitted bodice is styled with a round neckline, center-front hook-and-eye opening, boned darts, curved tucks on the bodice back, and has padding at the sides of the bosom. Ruching trims the front of the bodice and the bottom of the full, open sleeves. A pieced inset waistband closes at the left side front and connects the bodice to the skirt. The bodice is lined in brown glazed cotton; the sleeves are lined in lavender silk taffeta. Tiny self-fabric piping finishes the neckline, armscyes, and the bottom of the waistband. Residual stitching indicates the bodice side seams, the upper portion of the sleeve seams, the skirt and the waistband have been expanded from the original construction.

The skirt is constructed of eight panels of 24” wide fabric. It is styled with stepped directional pleats facing the center front and center back, changing direction at the sides with 2½" box pleats. The directional pleats are 2" deep, with a ½" face visible on the right side of the dress. There is a pocket with stay in the right side-front seam. A horizontal tear at the bottom of the left front skirt opening has been mended. The skirt is fully lined in lightweight brown glazed cotton and finished on the bottom edge with wool hem braid dyed to match the fabric. There is no facing at the lower edge of the skirt.

Condition: Good. There are two noticeable rust-colored stains on the lower front of the skirt that could be concealed for display with draping, a mended repair at skirt opening, and evidence of period alterations for size.

Measurements: Bust 35", waist 27", skirt lengths 43" front, 45" back, circumference 184".

Provenance: Signed letter from Tasha Tudor describing how she began collecting period clothing at age 9, used the dresses for her artwork, and even wore some of them. Curator work sheet from Tasha Tudor donation to Colonial Williamsburg, pReliminarily cataloged by L. Baumgarten, 9/1996. Dress sold by Whitaker Auction in 2007 to Texas Civil War Museum.  [cs][ph:L]

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